Once you've picked out the trousers, shirt, and tie, you need a jacket to pull it all together. (In fact, some would say you shouldn't wear a tie unless it's accompanied by a jacket, but more on that in a future post.)
This recommendation took a little more thought than some of the other entries in this series. I even thought about just skipping ahead to suit recommendations instead, but decided against it for three reasons. First, by already recommending oxford cloth button-down shirts and gray wool slacks, we've been building toward a blazer/sportcoat/odd jacket recommendation. Second, it's likely going to be easier / more affordable to add just a jacket to your growing wardrobe instead of an entire suit, and that's part of the goal here. Finally, because we're starting out with the basics, it's likely that someone using this advice does not yet have many occasions requiring the increased formality of a suit over an odd jacket.
[Odd jacket? Blazer? Sportcoat? What's the difference? An "odd jacket" (in the broadest use of the term) is a jacket that is made without a set of matching trousers, so some say it incorporates both blazers and sportcoats. A "blazer" generally is made from solid-colored material a bit thicker or coarser than suit material and features metal buttons. A "sportcoat" generally is patterned and considered the most casual option; perhaps the most common example is a tweed sportcoat.]
With that background, I've decided to go with my original inclination here and recommend the classic single-breasted navy blazer as our essential jacket. Here's why:
- It's a classic menswear item.
- It possesses an unequaled versatility and can be easily dressed up or dressed down.
- It can be worn in any season.
- There are many varieties and cost options from which you can choose.
- It complements our previous recommendations in the essentials series.
Now, a few details and caveats to bear in mind.
There are those who may think navy blazers are not that versatile (too casual for work, too formal for play) and that a tweed jacket is a better first odd jacket to add to a wardrobe to complement a suit. However, I believe this is not so much the case in the Midwest. Few Midwest workplaces are "suits only." Most are business casual, and a navy blazer is more easily worn in such an environment than a suit. And tweed sportcoats, while less formal, are also only season-appropriate in the Midwest for perhaps 7 months of the year. You can wear a blazer year-round. To that end, here are some examples of the versatility of the navy blazer.
Cooler months:
Warmer months:
Warmer months:
Concerned about looking like Judge Smails in Caddyshack? It's not too tough to avoid that look: ditch the ascot, the pocket patch, and, oh yes, the captain's hat. If the metal buttons are still too flashy for you, go for duller bronze buttons or try mother-of-pearl or horn instead. Purists say a blazer must have metal buttons, but our goal here is to find a nice-looking navy jacket that won't be confused for a suit coat. To that end, you want a more textured material, more casual styling elements (such as patch pockets), and buttons that contrast a least a bit with the jacket material. Here's a good example.
As mentioned above, options abound. Navy blazers can be found on eBay, at thrift stores, and at many menswear retailers online and in stores. There are many fit, styling, and button options available to match your preference. The only word of caution I would have would be that some retailers seem to be offering "blazers" with matching pants available as a separate. If the "blazer" has suit-jacket styling (tonal buttons, finer material, non-patch pockets), they are selling a suit coat, not a blazer. If the jacket does have blazer styling, then don't buy the "matching" pants to wear with the jackets, because the more informal look of the jacket will be incongruous with matching pants due to the formality expected of a suit.
