Tweeting @BeyondThePolo

We've opened a Twitter account and installed a feed from it in the right sidebar. The plan will be to use the account to provide alerts regarding sales, pass along interesting links not worth a longer post here on the blog, and follow up on ideas that we've previously blogged about. Follow the account at @BeyondThePolo.

Button-downs and suits.

Since our last post recommended the blue OCBD as the first building block for the Midwestern guy looking to upgrade his style, it seems appropriate to address perhaps the most well-known alleged rule relating to button-downs*: that they aren't properly worn with a suit.

The interesting thing about this rule is that, evidently, no one bothered to pass it along to Brooks Brothers, who are the generally-accepted foremost men's clothiers in the USA. The same can be said of J.Press, another of the upper-echelon American men's retailers.

It is true that the Europeans look with horror upon the button-down with a suit (and often even with a tie), but in America the button-down has regularly been worn with suits and ties, at least in the Ivy League tradition.

That being said, the idea that a button-down is inappropriate with a suit has gained significant traction in the USA. Thus, we would highly recommend against pairing a normal OCBD with a suit. At the least, go with the finer pinpoint oxford button-down. To play it safe, a straight or spread collar is always suit-appropriate (because they are more formal in the shirt hierarchy than a button-down), so why not invest in at least a couple of those to wear with your suit...remembering your collar stays, of course.    

* We should clarify here that the term "button-down" is properly used to describe a shirt with collars that button at their tips. Some folks use the term when referring to any shirt that buttons in the front, but the proper term for that use is, logically, "button-front."

Building your wardrobe: the essential shirt.

So let's get into some specific recommendations for building your everyday business/upscale casual wardrobe, assuming it currently is based on the short-sleeve polo shirt and khakis. We'll approach this from the standpoint of the first purchase we'd make if we were looking to make some upgrades.

It may not be a no-brainer, but it's pretty close: find and purchase at least one quality blue oxford cloth button-down (OCBD, for short) shirt. You'll be hard-pressed to find a more versatile workhorse for your everyday wardrobe. The no-iron or pressed versions are a classic look with a tie, wool slacks, and blazer on the high end. Or pair it with some chinos for your business casual look instead of a polo. When the weekend comes, forget the iron, embrace the rumpled look, and roll up the sleeves and wear it with some shorts. Once broken in, it's hard to beat the oxford cloth shirt for comfort and durability.

Where to buy? The classic is from Brooks Brothers, but it's also pricey. Lands' End and L.L. Bean have more affordable options. You can find used shirts from all three at your local thrift store or on eBay. Sources like Lands' End Canvas provide more trendy offerings (slimmer fit, smaller collar). If you find yourself in New York, check out the Uniqlo version, which has good reviews. Polo Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger also have OCBD's, although purists take issue with their visible logos. Even bargain retailers like Old Navy or Target usually have blue oxford cloth offerings.

Personally, we've been well served by the Lands' End versions. One consideration of buying a blue OCBD is finding the proper shade of blue. We would avoid the deeper french blue, which calls to mind the late 90's/early 2000's trend toward that shade. Opt instead for a lighter blue. Our favorite is a weave that uses coarser medium blue and white threads to produce a shirt that reads lighter once you're about a foot away.

 

Avoid.

 

Okay.

Our favorite (buy from Lands' end here).

Finally, we would note that we're not the only ones who have this preference for the blue oxford: more prominent men's style sources share our sentiments. So whether you go the affordable or upscale route, this is an easy first step toward achieving classic men's style.

Peeved: Stay Classy

(Note: Peeved is a series in which we'll briefly discuss the men's style faux pas that we see most frequently around us here in the Midwest.)

I'll fly away.

Let's quickly talk collar stays. It amazes us how frequently we see men around here in a jacket and tie with point or spread collars that are wings out and ready to take flight. We are left wondering whether these gents don't look in a mirror, whether they look in a mirror but don't realize how noticeable and poor the effect is, or whether they didn't put their tie on until later in the day and forgot to bring collar stays with them.

Some of your shirts may have collars that are stiff enough to avoid curling up with your tie. For those that don't, it's easy and cheap to rectify the problem. Your shirt probably came with collar stays, but if it didn't or you've misplaced them, buy some and use them: just slide them into the little pocket behind the point of the collar that's there for that purpose. Keep those collars grounded!

Of course, there's always the exception for those men who know the rules. Here's an example. And here's another (although it involves buttondowns, rather than collar-stay shirts). The point being that these gentlemen's overall outfits show that their curled curled collars are not the result of oversight or ignorance, but rather a personal style choice made by men who know style. These are not choices we would make, but they show it can be done.